I used this saw on a project with Mangeris wood, which is HARD. The saw had more than enough power to do the job without slowing or binding, and cuts were straight and true.

The best part about this saw, though, was that it just feels right in your hand. Balance is critical in an 18volt tool, and the Milwakee is perfect. I spent all day with it and didn't get overtired. I've used other circular saws, both corded and cordless, but this is by far my favourite.

The milwaukee 18v cordless saw is by far the best cordless saw out right now, I have used the dewalt and bosch and makita and
ryobi also porter.

For cutting thru 2x4's it will satisfy you quite well going thru about 30 - 50 on a battery, evan 2x6 thru 2x12 it does good. I tried to cut out a 2x12 10 step riser for stairs and it could not get thru it on a fresh battery.

Plywood especially 3/4 burns up batterys super quick.

now the upside, awesome balance, great power when the battery
is strong and ofcoarse awesome for roof work or any quick cutting jobs where you don't want to set up a cord.

for trim and mouldings you can cut all day, it did cut thru IPE wood an extremely hard wood (one inch by six) with fair ease.

a Joy and pleasure to use and will almost double the dewalt performance.

But:::: If you have alot to cut bring out the cord, if your cutting very wet or pressure lumber bring out the corded saw,
if your cutting lots of plywood bring out the corded saw,
if your ripping down more than a few pieces of 2x material bring out the corded saw.

If you must go cordless for these things have at least 3 batteries on hand and the new milwaukee 3 bay charger, in that case this saw has the balls to go all day and get thru almost any material, I just find, in the above listed cases it's alot easier to plug in and not have to worry about batteries.

but definetly the best in it's class...

I haven't used the DeWalt 18 volt, but I have handled them both. The Milwaukee has far superior balance and ergonomics. In normal average use, your wrist is in perfect alignment with your forearm, grip, and direction of travel. The base is also paralell to horizontal work when holding the tool above it. The other tool demands much more of your wrist, as it's grip is paralell to the work, rather than angled, and is front-heavy. The Milwaukee is heavier, but I believe would take less effort to operate. The padded grip is also a plus.

In appearance, the Milwaukee seems more durable. The upper and lower blade guards are both magneseum, rather than having a lower guard of plastic, which is a point of contact with whatever you may rest the tool on between cuts.

Now in it's own reguard, The 6310-20 is solid, quieter than I expected, and very smooth (given the proper blade for the job), the baseplate/blade angle can be fine tuned to 90 degrees if necessary via a hex set screw in the base and any handy square, the nearly instant electric brake speeds things up nicely, the front and rear sightlines help substantially with pocket/plunge cuts, the easily accessible spindle lock makes blade changes a snap with the supplied hex wrench or your own crescent or box wrench, the depth of cut guage can keep you out of trouble with blind wall cuts, much better thumb operated trigger release than I've experienced, etc, etc, etc...

My squeemishness for changing battery systems was even more alleviated when I discovered "The Hatchet", and any number of tools that may be purchased separately, without all the accessories of a kit. (I have way too many chargers as it is)

If interested, my tools are used in my duties in maintaining a 100 year old Theater which has been remodled, added to, subtracted from over the course of the years to become a twenty unit, sprawling, four story apartment building. Tight places, old wood, not as many outlets where I need to be.